I like your spirit, but I don’t think a Chinese equivalent to Google Play Services would be more desirable

I find the Jellyfin webapp a pretty bad experience on mobile, compared to FinDroid.

I really like the webapp on my LG webOS TV (especially good with the Magic Remote) though.

So I guess it kind of depends on the platform.

Jellyfin did some work on integrating the Skip Intros plugin a lot better, AFAIK you just have to enable it once on your server and then once in the settings of all Jellyfin web players.

As for apps, there are some good native third party apps which I mentioned here.

Was this with the first party Jellyfin app or with Swiftfin?

If it was with the first party app, I’d definitely recommend giving Swiftfin a try.

Jellyfin has native apps for Android, Android TV and iOS.

Does Plex offer native apps (that aren’t just stripped down browsers) for more platforms?

AFAIK you can enable the snapcast server and then use an app like SnapCast to stream to your mobile devices.

I was pretty neutral towards Ubuntu, up until an automatic system update removed my deb Firefox and replaced it with the snap version, even though I specifically set the apt repo to a higher priority.

The entire reason I left Windows is because I don’t want (for example) Edge shoved down my throat after every update, and yet Ubuntu has gone and done the exact same thing with snaps.

After literal hours of fighting, the only solution I found was to fully disable automatic updates. With Pop OS I have all the benefits of Ubuntu, but I also get a company (System76) that does cool stuff and doesn’t try shoving snaps down my throat.

From reading the Magic Earth FAQ, I believe the user data actually isn’t used for traffic at all (at least the manually reported events certainly aren’t).

Edit: never mind I missed a later part in the FAQ:

Do you share data with third parties?

We send position data to our traffic provider to generate real-time traffic information. The data is anonymized on the phone, using a changing key (so it’s not linked to you), and it is deleted after 5 minutes.

The first quote is taken out of context:

Not only are privacy and data protection founding principles for both Mobifree and F-Droid, the use of tracking-based in-app advertising poses a moral dilemma as well. If someone wants to gain access to an app, but does not have the financial means to purchase it, they can use it at a different kind of price - their user data.

For me this reads as them explaining and condemning that dilemma, instead of considering it as an option for F-Droid.

Yes definitely, here’s my Steam ‘Local Multiplayer’ collection:

• Biped
• Move or Die
• Overcooked! 2
• Party Animals
• (Portal 2)
• Rayman Legends
• Screencheat
• Stick Fight: The Game
• Tetris Effect: Connected
• Ultimate Chicken Horse
• Unrailed!

Nintendo also has some great couch co-op games,for example:

• Mario Kart 8 Deluxe
• Super Smash Bros. Ultimate
• Nintendo Switch Sports
• Super Mario Party

I also very much agree with the other commenter here, it’s such a shame that couch co-op is dying. The only ones still believing in it seem to be Nintendo.

Another game that’s fun to play is Unravel 2, but for me the Steam version had all sorts of problems so I ultimately ended up refunding it again.

If the main battery isn’t “meant to be replaced”, it will often act as the CMOS battery (e.g. MacBooks have been doing this since roughly 2008).

Yesss fcast looks incredibly promising. Sadly the only app implementing it seems to be GrayJay, I really hope it will catch on more.

TVHeadend is the way, I’ve been running it with a USB satellite tuner for 5+ years. Setting it up can be a little confusing, but once it’s running you pretty much never have to touch it again.

As for clients, there’s a Jellyfin plugin, however it seems to not work for me right now.

My client of choice is Kodi with the TVHeadend plugin, and that works great. If you still want Jellyfin integration, you could just add your recordings folder as a library in Jellyfin.

Could I purchase two different brand drives and use them with btrfs?

I don’t quite remember the source for this, but I believe I read some time ago that it’s actually a good thing to have separate drives. The reasoning is, if you buy two identical drives (at the same time), the likelyhood of both drives failing around the same time is severely higher.

This is then amplified by the fact that rebuilding a RAID puts a lot of strain on the non-dead drive, so if ie. drive 1 dies and drive 2 is about to die, the strain you put on drive 2 in order to rebuild your RAID onto drive 3 might kill drive 2 before you even finish rebuilding your RAID.

Again, this is just from my memory, it might be worth doing some more research on.

Only if you’re logged in as an Administrator though. A “standard” user account can’t access WiFi passwords on Windows.

I’m not too knowledgeable on that topic, but doesn’t Linux store WiFi or smb-share passwords in some keychain?

Edit: missread your comment a little, I’m guessing you meant that there are multiple different keychains on Linux

I just read the full article, and I’m not even that concerned about storing the key in plaintext. I find the possibility of copying the files, and then being able to run the same session simultaneously a lot scarier.

As the article states, currently all processes are able to read the file which contains the key. Instead, you could store the key in the macOS Keychain (and Linux/Windows equivalents), which AFAIK is a list of all sorts of sensitive data (think WiFi passwords etc.), encrypted with your user password. I believe the Keychain also only let’s certain processes see certain entries, so the Signal Desktop App could see only its own encryption key, whereas for example iMessage would only see the iMessage encryption key.

Same! I’m lowkey tempted to get a fancy one now, but deep down I know it just isn’t worth it.

If you care to minimize Standby power “comfortably”, usually libraries or power companies will let you borrow an AC Power Meter free of charge.

You can use that to inspect your various devices Standby Power. For example I have an amplifier that pulls nearly 15W in standby, since finding out it lives on a smart plug.

However my TV pulls less than 1W, and at that point I prefer the convenience of just being able to use the remote to turn it on.

(Also keep in mind with the smart plug solution that the plug itself will pull a little bit of power too, this will pretty much always be <1W though.)