So you mean it would have no effect, yes? On restart it will have the same settings and firmware it did prior to pressing the reset button?

I looked at the QMK docs to see about using it from the terminal. But I am not clear about how to get around the issue of the firmware not being up to date.

I don’t quite trust various bits and pieces I’ve found about how to use it around the web. Like the configurator page for this device says

Reset Key: Hold down the key located at K00, commonly programmed as Esc while plugging in the keyboard.

compared to the keychron docs I linked to in the OP which says

reset the keyboard by pressing fn + J + Z (for 4 seconds)

And also describes an actual reset button located under the space bar.

Why are they different…? It seems like keychron probab knows how to reset their own device. So I wonder if it is a good idea to load anything from this qmk page using methods I don’t understand well because I’d never be able to get myself out of a mess.

just to check my understanding: a 4 port card provides different capability than a 1 or 2 port card with a switch attached, yes?

thanks for all the info!

i am definitely a person who will always change the defaults for no particular reason. so I appreciate the warning. except I don’t quite know what you mean by “assignments”. do you mean like the names? eth0? or their functions? I do like the idea of having a physical jack that’s always guaranteed to allow access no matter what I foul up otherwise.

all these years I have been running my home network with a collection of routers just kind of attached together in a way that shouldn’t work due to “double nat” according to everything I ever read, but it is pretty much functional if not at all optimized. maybe if you don’t believe in double nat it won’t happen to you.

thanks! so for example: Intel Gigabit Dual PORT GIGABIT ETHERNET PCIe NIC Card EXPI9402PT NC360T which is CA$30. Does that sound right?

What’s a server card?

I’d prefer to avoid VMs if possible I never had much luck with them.

that sounds useful.

i like to keep things separate when plausible.

I was hoping to make use of one of the various computers I have cluttering this place up so I could justify continuing the collection. ;)

Do you know how to determine suitability of an existing card, or how to correctly purchase a replacement?

Does “interface” mean you need separate cards? Or you have a single card with multiple interfaces?

Is DMZ like a guest network?

I looked up “IDS/IPS” and it wounds like something I would prefer to avoid doing if I can.

The best internet I could subscribe to where I’m at is 1024 Mbps down, 50 Mbps up. I’ll add that to the post I guess it is relevant since so many people have fibre. (sigh)

Actually I just saw this: Zoom terms of use updated to allow AI training on user-generated data, no opt-out

Maybe if zoom is systematically collecting data on all users they would be able to build a reasonable model. Then it could be leaked or shared.

What do you think?

I wonder if he is friends with the guy who runs calibre and kitty terminal. I read somewhere that he was seriously planning to single-handedly maintain python 2 after it was EOLed because it was so integral to calibre. But was eventually talked into transitioning to python 3. The idea of that is totally nuts; the guy is a machine.

It sounds like it would have to be a very targeted attack. Like if the CIA is after you this might be a concern.

I agree. As soon as the update that disabled SMS was pushed to my phone, signal was effectively dead.

Integrating with SMS was so smart. The person who got me into it said “there is literally no reason not to do it” because it was seamless. And I used the same argument to get other people into it. But basically everyone stopped using it as soon as SMS was removed. I don’t have the brain space to remember who is on signal and who is not and go to the appropriate messenger.

I read the whole long thread on their website where the devs were arguing in favor of this and all the reasons were IMHO stupid. I think someone wanted to tank signal. Got tired of funding it probably. It was too good to be true with no obvious business model so always thought the day would come, and it did. Too bad, it was very good at what it did.

People who run printer companies should be incarcerated and forced to hand copy the source code of the linux kernel with a very small pencil.

Several years ago, I decided to finally buy an all-in-one so I could print my favorite photos and do some scanning. I did what I thought to be pretty adequate research to find a model where the ink wasn’t too expensive. It was Epson x-something.

Printed a few pictures but then, foolishly allowed to update software.

After that, it doesn’t scan (scan!!) if one of the inks is low. When I bought it I thought, if nothing else I will have a scanner. Wrong!

It turned out to be impossible to obtain the epson ink cartridges. No retail location near me sold them. Not on amazon. They sold it on the epson website. I ordered some. When the delivery came I was at work. So what this shipping company does is leaves a note saying “you can pick up your parcel at our facility” with an address that was miles away from my house in an industrial park hardly served by public transit. They were only open during business hours so I would have had to book a day off work and the google maps estimate was >3 hours round trip. I don’t even think I ever got a refund for the package which sat at the courier for 2 weeks and got returned to epson.

At the time I bought the printer, it was possible to use 3rd party ink. However their “security update” robustly protected against this. I had intended to buy the epson ink but I was never able to. So I tried 3rd party. It didn’t work, the printer wouldn’t use it because it could tell it was not epson brand.

There was no way to do a factory reset on the device, which IMHO is crazy for all kinds of reasons. The ink vendors had stuff up about how you could use some closed-source hack tool to force it to down grade. It primarily ran on windows which I don’t have. Also it seemed to me that the application could be doing literally anything to the printer, it was mysterious. I tried some things I read about how to force it to return to original hardware but it never worked.

I spent sooo much time researching, troubleshooting, reading on forums, shopping etc. And some money, I think about $100-150. What I got for it was a half dozen prints, mostly testing out how the printer worked. 2 of these were worth keeping in any respect so I have 2 photos that costed >$50 and many hours of work each. After a few years I gave up and threw it out.