• 23 Posts
  • 667 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: February 15th, 2024

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  • 67g would be a good number to pop into various search engines. For the Outemus, the Oranges are sort of intended to be a slight refinement of their basic brown. I’m not surprised you found them similar feeling.

    Zealio tactiles are supposed to have some pre-travel, as are “Moyu Blacks/Everglide Dark Jades”. I haven’t tried either, but it seems more common to push the tactile event to the top front of the curve than to leave it in the middle. NovelKeys Cream Tactiles may be have some weight and pre-travel as well. The force curve for Kinetic Labs Penguin also looks promising.

    One outside the “box” (LOL) would be Kailh Box MUTE Jade. These are “silenced clicky” switches that are supposed to have a very distinct event in the middle but not have the sound profile that we clicky degenerates love but so many people don’t.





  • I have mine, and frankly I still use it to read about college football and Star Wars and check AskHistorians and post about keyboards. For shitposting and actually engaging with humans – yes, many of whom are my political speed or even further left – I really prefer it here. I “left” during the Mod Rebellion and APIpocalypse when it kind of became clear things were not going to be getting better. If it dies, it dies. We got beans over here.



  • Literally the one undeniable success of the post-WW2 order was the lack of a global-scale hot war. Everything else is tainted by smaller scale conflicts and self-interest and economic inequality and picking winners and losers in a callous and awful way. But, you could always say it’s been 60, 70, and then 80 years with no world war 3. We didn’t nuke ourselves. We didn’t devastate our species’ potential to make the world better for more people. I guess on net there was even progress, statistically speaking, though that’s small comfort to those it bypassed and the benefits sure as shit were not distributed equitably.

    That one thing, that lowest of bars – no global shooting war – is now at risk because a handful of men who are stupid or evil or both, surrounded by people orbiting around them on those axes of stupidity and evilness, have decided that too much is not enough.









  • Hi. I have largely settled in on a pattern for making my boards, which I admit will always reveal their DIY nature when you look close, and sometimes even from afar, LOL!

    1. Design layout at https://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/
    2. Import that information into the swillkb or ai03 plate generators
    3. Edit the outside profile of the plate manually in 2D CAD software, and usually use that to also make a baseplate
    4. Only done this once, as I usually hand-wire, but here is where I’d design the PCB and send it off for manufacturing, at least in the before-times when this wasn’t prohibitively expensive.
    5. Import the plate into 3D CAD software and design a case around it. This is still a time-consuming undertaking for me, so a couple of times I’ve skipped it and just used standoffs to separate the switches and circuitry from the base plate.
    6. 3D print the case and any other bits that need it, like feet or blockers or MCU shells.
    7. Laser cut the plates from something that my cheap Diode engraver can get through, generally “Masonite” hardboard.
    8. Install switches into the plate and solder it up; for handwires this takes an awhile.
    9. Install and edit the firmware. So far, I’ve always used KMK, but at some point I’d like to move on to the more common QMK.
    10. Assemble the rest of the keyboard.

    I haven’t sold any DIY boards yet, but for the right customer, someone who understands the aesthetic limitations but still wants to pay too much for my time and needs something unique, I’d certainly consider it. I’m under no illusions that this is a large market, LOL.


  • The biggest issue is that the sockets were never really designed to be for enthusiasts changing switches all the time. They were designed for the factories to have multiple versions to sell with minimal retooling. If you are extremely diligent with removing the solder from the legs of the switches and keeping them straight, then yes, there’s nothing to prevent this from working. However, a little blob here and there will make it much more likely that you tear a pad when inserting the switch into the GMMK, and also more likely that the socket will be slightly deformed and never work quite right with any other switch.